FOREVER SADDLES

ABOUT FOREVER SADDLES

WHY FIT SADDLES?

Saddle fitting is SO important, for the horse's welfare, and the rider's safety. An ill fitting saddle can cause injury and can lead to the horse mis-behaving, which can be dangerous. An ill fitting saddle will normally create performance issues, too, which can spoil the enjoyment and pleasure of riding.

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CASE HISTORIES:

• A pony who wouldn't stand still to be mounted, hated being tacked up, rushed off when the rider was on board - all due to a couple of pressure points created by uneven flocking. The flocking was adjusted, and the pony's behaviour changed immediately - he is now happy to stand still by a mounting block, his junior rider can mount without assistance, and he walks away calmly.

• A horse ridden in a saddle that was far too narrow for him - he had severe muscle wastage behind his withers, he was extremely tolerant, and allowed his rider to do what she wanted, but he was a very tense horse (understandably!). The saddle was quite unsuitable - was far too narrow, and couldn't be adjusted sufficiently for him. A new saddle was fitted, and he has already put on approximately 1 inch of muscle either side of his withers. His behaviour has improved, too, and the relationship between the rider and horse has improved immensely.

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Signs that your saddle doesn't fit can include some or all of the following:

• Horse pulls a face when you tack up

• Won't stand still - fidgets - moves legs - pulls faces

• Saddle slips - sideways, to front or to back

• Rider feels unbalanced

• Rider gets backache when riding

• Horse won't stand to allow rider on board

• Performance issues - rushing, refusing to move, bucking, napping etc

These problems can be caused by other issues too, of course, but getting a saddle checked should be one of the steps taken to rule out more serious problems.

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HOW OFTEN SHOULD I GET MY SADDLE CHECKED?

We recommend a six monthly check, as horses can change shape, and the flocking in saddles will settle and pressure points can arise in time. However, there are other situations when more frequent visits may be necessary - young horses or horses coming in to work after a break are more likely to change shape more quickly, so should have more frequent checks. I will discuss this with you during the appointment and will advise on the recommended interval for your particular circumstances.

IS A SYNTHETIC SADDLE OR LEATHER SADDLE BETTER FOR MY HORSE?

This is a matter of personal taste and budget. There is a massive range of different styles of saddle available in leather, so theoretically, you have a better chance of finding a leather saddle that is a perfect fit. However, synthetic saddles are improving all the time, and there is now a very comprehensive range of styles and models from a number of manufacturers, which increases the chance of finding something suitable.

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Leather saddles are generally more expensive to buy from new, but do retain their value more than synthetic saddles. Leather saddles do need care to maintain their value and appearance. At higher showing levels, competitors (and judges!) may prefer the aesthetics of a leather saddle.

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Synthetic saddles are lighter in weight, cheaper to buy, and easier to care for. They are incredibly popular with riders and horse owners on a budget. Functionally they are as good as, and offer a very viable alternative to, a leather saddle.

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There is also a growing number of manufacturers offering saddles (synthetic and leather) with adjustability by various means. I personally prefer to fit a saddle that is adjustable. No saddle can last "forever", but an adjustable saddle has a better chance than a fixed tree.

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I have gullets/headplates for Wintec/Bates, Thorowgood/Kent & Masters and Wow saddles in stock, and I have a Saddle Company machine to adjust their saddles.

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• Check all tack regularly for signs of wear - it's easy to miss problems - I've seen stirrup leathers held together with minimal stitches, extremely worn girth straps, broken trees etc!  Better to find these problems when you have two feet on the ground.

• Include the numnah/saddlecloth in your checks - any frayed edges could be a source of friction.  Wash regularly to avoid the build up of sweat and grease - dirty numnahs/saddlecloths can also cause friction and sore backs.

• After washing, check that the filling of the numnah/saddlecloth (where applicable) is still evenly distributed to avoid creating any pressure points in use.

• Make sure that your saddle is put in the correct place - it's very common to put the saddle too far forward (onto the horse's shoulders) - this will be very uncomfortable for the horse.  

• Make sure that the numnah/saddlecloth is pulled up into the gullet of the saddle so that it doesn't make contact with the horse's spine.

• At the end of your ride, leave the saddle on the horse's back for a few minutes.  Loosen the girth, run the stirrups up, take the bridle off (clean the bit) then remove the saddle - this will allow the horse's back to recover from the pressure of the saddle and rider before it is removed.  

• (Bits should be washed after every ride)

• We suggest that a horse should never be tied up by a rope attached to the bit of a bridle, for safety reasons - if you need to keep the horse tied up, pop the headcollar back on, over the bridle.  Also, keep the reins out of the horse's way until you're ready to mount - they can be tucked under a stirrup on one side, or undo the throatlash and put the reins underneath it.

• Always pay attention to the horse's response to being tacked up - they could be displaying subtle signs of discomfort - best to respond to these promptly for the horse's sake and for safety.

• Make sure that tack is appropriate for the rider - stirrups should be wide enough to accommodate the widest pair of boots you're going to ride in.   If your horse regularly has different riders, you may possibly need different stirrups for riders with very different sized feet.  As a guide, 5 3/4" is the standard adult width.  Male riders, or ladies with chunky boots should check and see if a 6" stirrup would be appropriate.  There is a wide range of sizes of smaller stirrups for children - as your children grow, remember to check that the stirrups and stirrup leathers are still an appropriate size/length.  I often joke with teenagers that they'll be riding with their knees by their ears if they forget to drop their stirrup leathers as they grow.   Tack shops are great places for sourcing stirrups and leathers - take your boots with you to make sure the stirrup fits.

• Stirrups are made from a wide range of materials - best advice is to buy the best quality possible - and if you're buying a polymer/non metal stirrup, check the weight rating to make sure they're appropriate for the largest rider who'll be using them.   Old nickel stirrups should be placed in museums - nickel is soft and with age they could become prone to breaking.

• Flexible stirrups are great for those with ankle/knee problems.

• Angled stirrup treads can be helpful for some.

• Wash girths regularly - a build up of old sweat & grease can be a cause of girth galls.  Cheap machine-washable girth covers can be purchased to protect leather girths.

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